Gardening
EDIT: The picture didn't upload. Here's an external link: https://ibb.co/q0hmm3S Harvesting today. It's been cold and shitty out the past few days so it's been wrapped up for a while. Unwrapped it today and started to cut it down when we noticed these weird little growths. Are these seed pods? Is the crop ruined?
Zone 7a, Kentucky USA. I read about over-wintering peppers and tried it out last year, but sadly none of them survived. I pruned them appropriately, and kept them in my garage with infrequent watering once temperatures started getting into the 40s at night. We had wild temperature fluctuations (high 60s F during the day and low 30s F at night) and I’m not sure if that hindered the process. I would love to try again this year, but I’m wondering what others’ experiences are.
Pros: - Massive quantities of flowers for about 3 months - Bees love the blooms - The plant doesn't need any care to thrive - We've transplanted a few of the seedlings. They're true to their parent in terms of color, but the parents seems like a double bloom and the children seem like single bloom - If you want a hedge, this seems like a good option Cons: - Seeds! So many seeds. Each of its hundreds (thousands?) of flowers will produce 10+ seeds. They all don't germinate, but it's a numbers game. If you want to avoid pulling volunteers up you're best off pulling the seed pods off the plant before they open on their own I pulled ~2 gallons of seed pods off a week prior to this picture. My wife dumped them in the compost, so no epic 5+ gallon photo 😭
So I had to pull up some huge rosemary plants in the front yard to have some plumbing work done. I noticed that the rosemary I’ve bought to replace it has completely different leaves. The old plant was more like an evergreen with oily needle-like leaves. The new plant has soft flat leaves but still smells like rosemary. Are these two plants actually related? Are they both edible? The “evergreen” One was fairly hearty and grew quickly. Will the other variety act the same?
Wrapping up its first season, I think we're supposed to get a harvest starting year three.
I planted a few here last year and I guess they like this spot
As far as I can tell they are over 9 feet tall... What the hell did they bury in their front yard?!
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/20123777 > All pots, there is paving under the plants.
Post image is spaghetti squash  This tomato held up surprisingly well.  Marigolds  Another angle of spaghetti squash and watermelon I think.  Beans!  Cucumbers  Tomato  And nasturtiums.
I've been having trouble with several of my plants the last couple of years. I've planted almost 4 blueberry bushes, grapevine and some winterberries that do well for several months then seem to start growing very slow and doing poorly. Our soil is more of a silty soil that doesn't drain well so I did fill the holes in with good potting soil with compost and covered with a thin layer of the silty soil and try to water about once a week. The last year I had 3 blueberry bushes that I planted early spring that put out some new growth and then started to grow very slow and later died In early fall and didn't come back the next year. I've tried to fertilize and add gardening Sulphur to them to help acidity the soil but no matter what I do everything slowly starts to die. I've noticed this year the leaves on the grapevines and blueberries appears to have chlorosis and the winterberries' leaves are turning brown and curling up. It's still ~90 degrees out so I doubt anything should be going dormant yet (I live in zone 5b). I even tried to buy special blueberry fertilizer to make sure I wasn't missing anything important but I'm still having issues. Here is the blueberry bush:  The raspberries:  And one of the winterberry bushes:  Does this look like iron defiency or potentially some other sort of issue? At this point I'm considering getting my soil tested but if anyone has any advice let me know.
I had a volunteer milkweed this year in my small raised bed/container garden. Early into the season it developed a yellow aphid infestation. I was horrified! They were disgusting things (and far, far too many of them). While I was interested in an insect garden, I was worried spread to nearby plants, specifically my prized blackberries, affecting yields. I researched and treated the aphid infestation with Neem Oil and basically killed the living population. Success! Or so I thought… After I traveled for about a month, I returned to see the aphids had rebounded in full force. An interesting thing though, neither had they spread to other plants. Even more interesting there were ladybugs, there were beetles, there were wasps, there was even a praying mantis. I wouldn’t say the milkweed is super happy about the arrangement, but it is growing, and it was a volunteer into the garden. Overall it’s been the best plant of the season by far teaching me a little bit about ecosystems. TLDR: my aphid infestation totally allowed my predator insect population to boom
I assume the best way is to go off of date on the packaging for maturity days, but with the weather here it’s kinda hard to determine, they were stunted for a few weeks before even doing anything. Could frost here anytime and covering these isn’t really an option! Any advice would be appreciated! 
This came up unexpectedly and I’m waiting to see what it’ll be. I didn’t plant any squash or pumpkins this year. In fact I’ve never planted either in this garden bed. We affectionately call it our “pumquash” while we wait. I have it under a greenhouse because we had our first frost warning this weekend, and I’d really like at least one fruit to mature so we can solve the mystery. This is the furthest along.
Today’s our first frost date, and I haven’t had a single ripe tomato yet. Time to break out the plant covers and cross my fingers. I usually make green tomato relish. What are your favorite green tomato canning recipes?
Too hot for the garden today so have another picture from my phone. If anyones on bluesky tell Aaron Alexovich these things exist.
Yeah... This is half a packet of seeds and they are literally hopping from the fence to tree branches literally a couple feet away. I swear it said it was a bush type too and this is more forest.
Well the branch holding my bell peppers fell off entirely from the weight.... So guess it's fajita night. I honestly have so many Serranos and jalapenos but am the only one that loves spice so.... On the plant they stay for another days nachos. And yes I know that is a leek but my onions aren't ready and it's a kitchen scrap garden. So using what I got.
At long last some of the wildflowers I planted last year are blooming. I can see that there are frequently bees on them, so hopefully they are being pollinated. I would like to collect wildflower seeds from flowers that I would like to propagate and then spread them over bare patches to try and fill them in. How do I recognize when the seeds are ready to be harvested? How do I harvest them, just yank the bloom off of the stem? I planted a flower assortment with: Purple Giant Hyssop, Dwarf Columbine, Siberian Wallflower, Shasta Daisy, Lance-Leaved Coreopsis, Sweet William Pinks, Purple Coneflower, Blanketflower, Gayfeather, Blue Flax, Perennial Lupine, Russell Lupine, Maltese Cross, Dwarf Evening Primrose, Mexican Hat, Dwarf Red Coneflower, Black-Eyed Susan, Moss Verbena I probably will spread them after the first frost so they grow in the spring. 
[Seeds for those interested](https://www.reneesgarden.com/products/squash-summer-heirloom-climbing-trombetta). They're called trombettas and they're a climbing summer squash with everything you would expect there - nice, mild flavor, etc. They only have seeds in their 'head'. If you pick them young enough the seeds won't be formed so you can eat the entire thing. If you wait a bit longer, you can very easily scoop the seeds out and slice or stuff the head. Head to tail, these things can easily get over two feet. They can also be a bit curvy. I've found them to be very hardy over the years. They climb really well without encouragement. The vines in the photo are easily 9 feet long.
