elDalvini 1w ago • 100%
Can you get a big flathead screwdriver in there to carefully knock it out? It should allow you to get a better angle than the dedicated tool.
Go slowly and alternate the places you're putting the end of the screw driver. You want to push the cup out evenly, or it will jam and possibly deform the head tube.
elDalvini 1w ago • 100%
HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren't too intrusive the last time I tried it)
elDalvini 2w ago • 100%
That's probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you're redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.
elDalvini 2w ago • 100%
It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I'm guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn't get too warm, not to cool individual components.
Where is the original air exhaust? If it's near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).
elDalvini 1mo ago • 100%
You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.
Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.
So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it's off. But when it's turned on, the battery charge will still drop.
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
Sure, the skull is biodegradable. But didn't you know that large-scale human farming is responsible for the vast majority of CO2 emissions?!
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I'll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜
Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.
As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn't make a huge difference, as long as it's from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.
Thanks for your help!
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!
My 5 year old notebook is starting to show it's age, so I want to finally build a "real" PC. I rarely play games, so this is probably overkill - But I don't want my PC to be what's stopping me. I also expect it to last a while. I chose all AMD because I'm running linux, and AMD seems to still be the best choice for that. I found a couple similar posts on which I based this list, so most of the parts are probably fine. I'm unsure about the cooler: How much headroom should I leave? This one is rated just 10W higher than the CPU TDP, so it might be cutting it too close. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/fgBcWt) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | €385.00 **CPU Cooler** | [be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 2 CPU Cooler](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/JcqPxr/be-quiet-pure-rock-slim-2-cpu-cooler-bk030) | €23.94 **Motherboard** | [MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi) | €160.24 **Memory** | [G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/LBstt6/gskill-flare-x5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-fx5) | €99.89 **Storage** | [Crucial P2 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/G9XYcf/crucial-p2-500-gb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct500p2ssd8) | Purchased For €0.00 **Video Card** | [ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 7600 8 GB Video Card](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/BYdG3C/asrock-challenger-oc-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-rx7600-cl-8go) | €255.00 **Case** | [MSI MAG FORGE 110R ATX Mid Tower Case](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/tWQcCJ/msi-mag-forge-110r-atx-mid-tower-case-mag-forge-110r) | €54.85 **Power Supply** | [Gigabyte UD750GM 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/W4Tp99/gigabyte-ud750gm-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-gp-ud750gm) | €75.43 **Case Fan** | [be quiet! Pure Wings 3 49.9 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/QM26Mp/be-quiet-pure-wings-3-499-cfm-120-mm-fan-bl105) | €9.32 **Case Fan** | [be quiet! Pure Wings 3 49.9 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/QM26Mp/be-quiet-pure-wings-3-499-cfm-120-mm-fan-bl105) | €9.32 | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **€1072.99** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-09-04 20:37 CEST+0200 |
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I'm seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can't print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it's disabled.
What slicer are you using? If it's a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
It looks to me like a JST SH connector: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10357
Measure the distance between the two pins - if it is 1 mm, this is most likely the connector you're looking for.
elDalvini 2mo ago • 100%
From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the "dead time control" pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that's the closest function to "over current protection" this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don't need to use them at all.
My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.
I haven't worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.
elDalvini 3mo ago • 100%
You can bring the resting position of the brake lever closer to the handlebar by turning this screw clockwise. The brake lever looks a bit short for my taste, it's probably not designed for use with that type of shifter. But with a bit of adjustment it should still be usable.
elDalvini 3mo ago • 100%
Do you expect every meme to be meticulously handcrafted? It's a stupid joke, not a work of art.
elDalvini 4mo ago • 100%
Close, but the word ends in -le, not -ie. The -le suffix is used as a diminutive form in some German dialects.
elDalvini 4mo ago • 100%
A small pair of vernier calipers. I don't use them a lot, but sometimes they come in very handy.
elDalvini 4mo ago • 100%
If that freehub is constructed like the ones I've taken apart before, you're out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.
You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won't work if it's very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don't want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.
elDalvini 5mo ago • 100%
Unfortunately, this might not be easy to find a solution for. The larger thread size doesn't seem to be a standard bike pedal thread, so finding a specific adapter is probably not possible.
Another solution might be to use some kind of threaded inserts in the cranks (this would probably require drilling the cranks out for a larger thread). But the standard pedal thread of 9/16-20 is not widely used anywhere else, so finding the inserts (let alone a left-handed ones is probably next to impossible.
elDalvini 6mo ago • 66%
Klar hinterlässt das Spuren, aber nichts was man mit etwas Seife oder Spüli nicht wieder weg kriegt. Der Dreck ist ja in dem Moment schon gelöst (sonst wäre er noch am Fahrrad). Nur Festtrocknen würde ich es nicht lassen.
Ich wäre nur vorsichtig dabei, mit höherem Druck direkt an die Lager ran zu gehen. Danach hast du sonst auch Wasser in den Lagern und musst doch alles auseinander bauen und neu fetten.
elDalvini 6mo ago • 94%
My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I'm currently using.
I just found out that the Getty museum released a lot of artwork into the open domain, including quite a few [stereographs](https://www.getty.edu/art/collection/search?object_type=Stereograph). These are meant to be viewed with a [stereoscope](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereoscope), but I’ve found they work amazingly well in crossview.
I just found out that the Getty museum released a lot of artwork into the open domain, including quite a few [stereographs](https://www.getty.edu/art/collection/search?object_type=Stereograph). These are meant to be viewed with a [stereoscope](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereoscope), but I've found they work amazingly well in crossview.
I built my 3D printer a couple of months ago, but I can't get it to print sharp corners. The corners in the picture should be 90°, without any fillets: ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/acf626c9-9cbb-4b8e-8294-c509ceaff3a7.png) During this test print, I played with multiple parameters: speed, temperature, acceleration, junction deviation, linear advance. All of these were also individually tuned previously. Nothing seems to make a difference. Could this be a issue with the construction of my printer? I'm beginning to think my hotend isn't rigid enough, but then I would at least expect better results at low speeds. Edit: the printer is a CoreXY of my own design running Marlin 2.1.2.1. The Slicer is PrusaSlicer with most settings left as default (but increased speeds)
![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/dafcee72-f8f5-4241-9bb2-0ab149ba65da.jpeg) ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/9b325dc5-5980-42ba-b66f-4ec4320a5e44.jpeg) ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/221e9d12-a693-475c-8633-071fc391a148.jpeg) ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/4b7c3e8d-b23f-462c-8ab5-1ffffa316659.jpeg) ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/79ab1704-deb6-45f8-9d0e-fd7e0404da39.jpeg) ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/b7cdcd86-7f92-4166-9719-72cc21817d74.jpeg)