Home Networking
TLDR: Why do so many routers support >1Gbit/s on their WiFi while only having 1Gbit/s ethernet interfaces? So, I've been upgrading parts of my home setup and have a router (without AP) that has 2.5G interfaces. My PC also has a 2.5G interface, but that only going to the router is kinda useless (the ISP offers 1G). The place my PC is at is also a good position for an AP. So, I went looking for a cheap second hand wifi router and stumbled upon quite a few that were boasting >1G connection speeds, not only AX but also AC. Now I know this is often a combined theoretical Max, but still a lot offer >1G for the single band. The vast majority of these routers, though, have 1G Ethernet ports. Putting that between my PC and router reduces that linkspeed and I can't actually reach over 1G for the WiFi devices as well. Why would you sell a product like that. Undoubtedly those radio's were more expensive but their in a package that can't fully utilize them. I can think of some reasons: marketing, radio's are mostly not fully utilized anyways, helps with latency, maybe? Does anyone know why it's done like this?
I'm looking to replace my old Netgear Nighthawk with a new router. Currently my house does have some dead zones which we make up for using a powerline. But the powerline isn't always stable and we have to switch wifi networks depending on where we are in the house. My question is, **is it better to get a mesh network or a standard router with either range extenders (ex: TP-Link OneMesh) or mesh features (ex: Asus AiMesh)?** I couldn't really find any article that listed the differences between mesh routers and standard routers with extendable features. They only compare mesh routers with standard routers. More info: Preferably, I would like to go with the standard router for the higher speeds and extra ports but I'm afraid that won't solve our dead zone issues. Also, buying two or three standard routers is way more expensive than a mesh network with multiple satellites. Speed and signal strength are important for me since both I and my brother WFH and do online gaming. Unfortunately, the home office (where the router is) and bedrooms (where we game and where my brother works) are on opposite sides of the house. Another note is that when the garage opens, my brother loses signal in his room for some reason. I haven't experienced that despite being closer to the garage than him
Hello, For some context I am moving into my first home. I am looking for a network solution to use and will last a long time. My original idea was just getting a new wifi 7 router maybe a gaming one since gaming is my passion but I got talking to my friend and he has a [ubiquity Dream Machine ](https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-unifi-cloud-gateways/products/udm-pro) and talks really highly about it and I would love this/something similar to it. He showed me all the features it does and the layout of the UI etc. Being able to add security cameras to it and such is something I very much so want a long with a lot of the other things it can do. I am good with technology I am a software engineer and I currently have things such as netalertX and adguard home running on a mesh network so I can and would be willing to set things up. Is this the only only type of device that does this kind of thing or are there others? Any suggestions or alternatives I like to look at options before buying. Side note budget is relatively high aka I am willing and unless given alternatives I like more going to be going with the dream machine and the other required items from them. Thanks :)
I just fought getting a 3rd party range extender working and wanted to share what I learned. Equipment: Macard re1200 range extender and Gigaspire blast u4 GS2028E router After setup of the Macard extender, all 3 lights were solid green meaning that it connected and authenticated to the router. However, devices connected (wirelessly) to the macard could not access the internet. What I found that fixed it was I had to enable the "ARP spoofing" security flag in the Gigaspire's settings. The initial user ID and password are printed on the label on the back of the router so use that to log in.
I created a whitelist access profile. That ensures that the whole WAN is blocked except what is exceptionally whitelisted. I started with an empty whitelist. The LAN is rightfully accessible and the WAN is rightfully inaccessible. The router does not use DSL. Instead, it uses a USB mobile broadband LTE modem. The modem has its own website which gives SMS capability. The modem is technically upstream to the router, so it is blocked when the WAN blocking profile is enabled. I want to whitelist the modem so that when I am blocking WAN access I can still reach the web UI of the modem and monitor SMS msgs. Fritzbox is designed so that all attempts to directly access an IP is blocked if whitelisting is in play. IP addresses cannot be whitelisted, only URLs using FQDNs. So I did “nslookup 10.10.50.8” to get the hostname of the modem. Then I whitelisted the hostname. That does not work. The modem is still blocked.
Was looking into this today and this video came up, so thought I'd share Summary: > This video is about securing Cloudflare tunnels with VLANs and an internal firewall. > > The speaker, Jim, argues that while Cloudflare tunnels are a great technology, they can introduce security risks because all the traffic that comes into your network is visible to Cloudflare. To mitigate these risks, Jim suggests segmenting your internal network and adding extra layers of security. > > Here are the key steps to secure Cloudflare tunnels with VLANs and an internal firewall according to Jim: > > * Create a Mac VLAN for the Cloudflare tunnel. This will isolate the traffic coming from the tunnel from the rest of your network. > * Add an internal firewall rule to allow traffic only from the Mac VLAN to the specific port where your service is running. This will restrict the Cloudflare tunnel's access to only the resources it needs. > * Configure your firewall to perform IDS/IPS on the traffic coming from the Cloudflare tunnel. This will help to identify and block malicious traffic. > By following these steps, you can add extra layers of security to your network and reduce the risk of a breach even if your Cloudflare tunnel is compromised. > > Jim also mentions that a next-generation firewall can be used for additional security benefits. This type of firewall can perform deeper inspections of traffic and provide better protection against sophisticated attacks. > Overall, the video provides a good overview of the security risks associated with Cloudflare tunnels and how to mitigate those risks using VLANs and an internal firewall.
Title. I have my CCST (yes, I should've gotten the CCNA, working on it. My school paid for the voucher) and CompTIA A+. I'm trying to make a presentable resume for networking internships but I'm hearing conflicting advice about whether I should have a github portfolio or not. I host a web server that links to a blog. Some things on that blog include GNS3 labs, packet tracer activities I've created, Bash scripts for simple Linux admin tasks etc. I just have a link to this static website. Why would recruiters open up my github and care about my packet tracer files or daily cron job script for RAID backups? I'm not interested in programming outside of network automation. I've used netmiko before with GNS3 and it's incredible, but I don't see why (or how) I would put those netmiko scripts on github.
cross-posted from: https://lazysoci.al/post/13500180 > I have the Pi-Hole acting as the DHCP server and DNS server too and this works fine for 23 hours and then it flops and I don't understand why. > > Basically after 24 hours, all devices just disconnect from the router and when I try and reconnect them, they say they're unable to get an IP address. > > But before they drop connection, they all report the DNS server as the Pi-Hole. > > If I change my DHCP to static and connect to my router, I see that the Pi-Hole is still connected with its static IP just fine. > > If I factory reset the router and then add the same SSID and password, the Pi-Hole automatically reconnects and then all devices can reconnect again, so I'm unsure what the issue is. > > Can someone break this down. I feel stupid for not understanding what's happening here.
Hopefully I am in the right community. So I have a router, a TP Link Archer AX53, nice router. I wanted to improve the signal in my room and bought a TP link Deco X10. So CAT 6 cable to my room, connect my router and deco. I thought this might just be a quick tick to add the deco as a mesh device and boom problem sorted. Now I know this is not a simple WiFi 6 mesh setup, seems like the deco and archer modem does not work together, they make their individual network points. Does anyone know a solution or am I stuck with two networks. Not end of the world but would have been nice if it can be one mesh network
a.aliexpress.com
I didn't even know cat 8 cabling was a thing.
Thought this was interesting. Maybe it can help someone who's in a similar position to myself and looking at their options
Everyone was kind enough to ram my brain chock full of knowledge about switches and I came away feeling like I can explain it to other people. (please don't test me on this, I'll fail) But now I'm trying to figure out how I want my network to look and so it's best I ask the people smarter than me that actually understand what I'm trying to do. My house is an average sized, end of terrace in a big city and so while I can get decent Internet speeds, I get lots of WiFi signal congestion with neighbours, buildings, etc. In my present router, which I really need to replace, I have my NAS and cable box plugged in via Ethernet, everything else is connected via WiFi. That's a bunch of phones, a couple laptops, and a couple Raspberry Pi's (including my one with all my home services, like Home Assistant and my Pi-Hole). The design I'm cooking up, is that my NAS would be on a virtual LAN with no direct access to the Internet, my Raspberry Pis would have Internet access. I don't need to worry about my smart home devices having Internet access since they're all Zigbee devices. But I plan to switch my cable box to an IPTV box and I'm also wanting to get a video doorbell and security camera for the garden, so that's at least three virtual local area networks. Four if I add a guest network. My questions are really simple ones and you're probably gonna laugh at how stupid they are… can I do this all with a single switch? Do I need a separate access points for each VLAN or can I have multiple vLANs on a single AP? How many ports should I be looking at on my switch? Would four be enough for my set-up? Also managed is best right?
Okay, I've been watching lots of YouTube videos about switches and I've just made myself more confused. Managed versus unmanaged seems to be having a GUI versus not having a GUI, but why would anyone want a GUI on a switch? Shouldn't your router do that? Also, a switch is like a tube station for local traffic, essentially an extension lead, so why do some have fans?
There are apparently only two documented ways to reverse tether an Android via USB to a linux host: * [openVPN method](http://salutepc.altervista.org/usb-reverse-tethering-no-root-no-adb-android-all-versions-linux-quick-mode.html) * [Gnirehtet](https://www.ubuntubuzz.com/2019/09/android-reverse-tethering-with-ubuntu-1804.html) ***OpenVPN dead*** I really wanted the #openVPN method to work because I’m a fan of reducing special-purpose installations and using Swiss army knives of sorts. In principle we might expect openVPN to be well maintained well into the future. But openVPN turns out to be a shit show in this niche context. Features have been dropped from the Android version. ***Gnirehtet dying*** Gnirehtet works but it’s falling out of maintenance. ~~It’s also unclear if~~ #Gnirehtet really works without root. There is mixed info: * Ade Malsasa Akbar from Ubuntubuzz [claims](https://www.ubuntubuzz.com/2019/09/android-reverse-tethering-with-ubuntu-1804.html) root is ***not*** needed (and devs [agree](https://github.com/Genymobile/gnirehtet)). * OSradar [claims](http://web.archive.org/web/20230531011502/https://www.osradar.com/reverse-tether-from-linux-to-android/) root ***is*** needed. (edit: they are mistaken) If anyone has managed to reverse tether an unrooted Android over USB to a linux host using free software, please chime in. Thanks! update on Gnirehtet --- Gnirehtet indeed works without root. But some apps (like VOIP apps) fail to detect an internet connection and refuse to communicate. #askFedi
Let me explain my current setup so that I can explain the problem... For redundancy, I have two internet providers at home. One of them is DSL and the router is located at the entrance hall. The other one is cable and the connection point (and therefore the modem/router) is at the living room. My workstation is in another room on the opposite end of the apartment. To connect all that, I bought a set of powerline adapters from TP-Link, [one with 3 ports and WI-FI extender](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-TL-WPA8631P-Streaming/dp/B08FX98B59) and [two with 3-ports](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TP-Link-TL-PA8030P-KIT-Powerline-1300Mbps/dp/B00SWI2UK0/) alongside with a [load balancer multi-wan router, with 5 ports](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TL-R470T/dp/B004UC9V8Q) also from TP-Link. Right now, I have one the multi-wan router connected to one powerline adapter (one port for each wan), another adapter at the entrance hall connected to the LAN of the DSL router, and the adapter with Wi-FI extender connected to the Cable router. The wired part works. My workstation connects to the router and I get an IP from it. The router can connect with both WANs and my connection seems stable. My problem is in the wireless part. From my phone, it says it is connected but it can not resolve any external connection. At first I thought the wi-fi was getting confused with the different DHCP servers, but even after disabling DHCP on DSL/Cable routers (not using it anyway because I am connecting through the "multi-wan" router, right?) the connection is still not going through. I can access the management part of the Wi-FI extender and it seems to be on the same subnet as the multi-wan router, so I *guess* it can connect to it, but the actual connection outside simply doesn't happen. Is this setup so out of ordinary? Should I just forget about the wi-fi extender and add a "real" access point in the living room? I guess I could accept that the mobile devices need to be aware of the separate WAN routers, but it would be a lot nicer if they could all connect transparently...
I’m having to use a 4g router (from Three in the UK), as the wired internet is rubbish. I’d like suggestions for a 3rd party router 4&5G compatible for future proofing. It needs to support bridge mode (to avoid having to double NAT) and ideally support IPv6 as three support that as well. I don’t need WiFi. Any suggestions welcome & thanks.
After years with Powerline and Wifi, i'm slowly swapping things to MOCA as i have a fairly new house that has good coax to every room. At the moment i have a simple setup with point to point, but run a diplexer because I have a HDHomerun right next to where the master GoCoax Box is - so filter off the TV Signals. I want to add a third Moca (GoCoax) box I have attached an image of my current setup What is the easiest way to add in another moca box? Is there a Splitter that is easily avalible in the uk that i can put in the loft that does the splitting as well as the frequency seperation and leaves free ports for future additions?? Or do i just need to stack a splitter with a diplexers? Cheers Guys https://preview.redd.it/g6drutpdm34c1.png?width=1301&format=png&auto=webp&s=66b91a751203fbe959923af0897c739c7bef954f [Diplexers](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L4D25B4) [GoCoax Boxes](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08XP8MMFG)
Hi I am transferring files from my Windows Laptop to my Synology NAS. Ethernet says link speed is 1000/1000(Mbps) Files transfer very slowly. Anything to check? Thanks P https://preview.redd.it/7rdck223y84c1.png?width=539&format=png&auto=webp&s=ff0cd03abf7015e39e0318771306b07c52f96c91
OK, I'm a total beginner when it comes to anything regarding home networking so please bear with me. I just recently moved into a house a week after the previous residents moved out. The previous residents had internet up until they moved out and were using a specific coaxial cable in the house for internet. They were using the same one and haven't had issues with their internet. They also had Xfinity internet since that's the only one available for this house. I moved in one week after they left and immediately got an account with Xfinity and got the necessary equipment. I also hooked everything up to the same coaxial that they were using but had no luck getting internet. There are also 4 other coaxial cables and inputs in the house. None of them were live. The previous residents have used one of the other bedroom inputs, and it worked for them. Why would a coaxial cable no longer be live after only one week? Is this due to damage to the wiring? Also, why does this house have both coaxial cables coming out of the walls as well as coaxial inputs? Are there differences? Also, I would prefer not to pay for a technician. Is there anything I can do to resolve this issue or is it better to let a technician handle it?
We have a GS108Ev3 and a Nighthawk X6 R8000. GS108Ev3 has this famous 80-port 10Mbps issue, completely useless. Today our X6 R8000 broke down. I factory reset it, then the 192.168.1.1 web page keeps redir to [https://www.routerlogin.com/start.htm](https://www.routerlogin.com/start.htm), which is 404. now it is a electricity wasting brick. hopeless crap. I'll fire any employee buys netgear again.
Hello guys, I live in a flat on the 3rd floor and have a garage across the street. I would like to extend my current wifi to it in order to add some sensors/do some automation stuff. My question is: what is the best aproach to do this. I have currently a AX1800 Wi-Fi 6 Router that barely reaches the door of the garage. Thanks.
Even my 5g barely gets 2 bars on a good day. The only wifi (router located in the basement) rarely connects for long. Helppp
You create a new user to repost that users content from reddit? This is absolutely ridiculous. You make it so we can't block your spam by blocking the bot user if you create a new user for every post.
My friends live on a small farm. Their water supply is from an artesian well. When the temperature drops below freezing, they have to turn on a heat lamp to keep the pump and pipes from freezing. This is set up in an open front shed about 75 feet from the house. I looked at setting up a wifi plug on the heat lamp, controlled via Alexa. (They've built a box to enclose the pump) However, their Wifi does not extend that far. They are using these AT&T branded Netgear pucks, Model MR6500, that barely reach halfway across the house. They are switching to Starlink in a week or so. (I know nothing of Starlink beyond it's using satellites) How can I get this to work for them? Cheaply, if possible.
Hi guys, I'm setting up a network with a series of groups of computer, tag printer and laser cutting machine for a home project. I need these groups to be easily replaceable/swappable, and for that I'm planning on setting up all them with fixed IPs behind a router for each group, so one computer can be replaced for another without having to configure IPs all again. Each router would be connected via WAN port to the ISP's router with their own IP. Communication with both the printer and the laser cutter is done via fixed IP. Will this work? What possible issues could I have, or what should I do to prevent them? https://preview.redd.it/rwg9y540954c1.png?width=2771&format=png&auto=webp&s=5baf254d8ebd73275c2feb117211fc4e986a22ed
I am trying to connect my PS4 with a lan cable wired through the wall to a network switch. The connection test on the PS4 fails to recognize an IP, yet the network switch gives me the flickering green light, and the cable tester from the two ends says the cable is fine. Internet on the other devices connected to the switch is fine, yet this cable, with other devices too, has issues.
Hi there, looking for some advice for a new router. We use it in an 'air gapped' media network where it's main purpose is moving large files to and from devices. It is not connected to the internet, only other networks. I think a WiFi 6 router is the best avenue to explore, any other/better suggestions or ideas? Don't want to spend more that £200 / £300 Cheers, Cam
My wife and I are building a home and as I am a gamer and my wife works from home, having fast and reliable internet is huge for us. We are both wanting to be wired into the internet. I am not the most tech savvy when it comes to home networking. I am trying to think what I need in the office for outlet wise to have the modem and router in there so we can connect via cable easily. I was thinking of asking for a coax cable into the room to connect the modem to it. What are your thoughts on one coax cable for that room? Should I be asking for different outlets in the room or in other places? What other things should I be considering in my house? Any or all help will be appreciated! Thanks!
My apartment provides public WiFi for all the tenants, but the networks they have set up are open for anyone to join, no password or anything. There was also no router in my unit, but there was a Ethernet port in a wall, in my room. I did some research and found out I can hook up a router to that Ethernet port and have my own private network with a password, so that's what I did. I hooked up a Netgear NightHawk R8000. I did a speed test on my ps5 while having the Ethernet plugged from the PS5 into the router (which is plugged into the wall), and I had 98 Mbps download. Then I did the same test, but instead plugged the Ethernet from the ps5 directly into the wall(no router), and got 300mbps. edit: I also did the same tests on my ps5 over WiFi for both networks, and they were about the same. The router connection had a faster upload speed if i remember correctly. Can someone explain why that happens? Is that much of a drop normal? I'm new to networking and I'm trying to see if there's anything i can do to bring up the download speed while I'm connected to my own router.Also, on a side note, I'm curious as to where the Ethernet port that's in the wall is getting internet from? Also how was I able to connect to the WiFi when there was no router in my unit? I can stay on the apartments public WiFi no matter where I am within the complex so does that mean they have an extremely strong router somewhere? Thanks in advance I know i probably sound dumb lol.
Does it only let the devices use the primary DNS until failure then use the secondary DNS? or does the devices use both at the same time all the time? For context, I have a single pi-hole set up and I want the devices to only use the pi-hole unless it failed then use public dns such as [8.8.8.8](https://8.8.8.8) or [1.1.1.1](https://1.1.1.1).
Looking into buying a gaming pc. And i am also building myself a separate building outside of the house that it will go in. How can i get WIRED CONNECTION on the pc without running a long cable from inside the house? Thanks
Using [speedtest.net](https://speedtest.net), with ethernet, I get a download speed of 530 Mbps and a ping of 12 ms. On WiFi, I get a download speed of 495 Mbps but with 66 ms of latency. Pinging my router directly over WiFi results in a latency of <1 ms and pinging another wireless device on the same network results in a latency of 2 ms. So, it seems that the additional latency of using WiFi instead of ethernet should be negligible instead of a difference of >60 ms. What could be causing this?
Hey everyone, I'm looking at getting a new (to us) home cabled up, and in the past I've always designed with the following principles (ignoring WiFi APs within this scope): \- Single patch panel near comms cabinet \- Wall port per device + additional ports for future proofing Essential, a star topology - the patch panel connects to a single switch with no other switching. However, I'm wondering if that's maybe overdoing it a tad, given that I'm in Australia where 100Mbps internet is considered top of the line\*, and the vast majority of traffic is device->internet, with very little intranet traffic beyond occasional file/print transfers or streaming from a media server. So to that end, I'm considering a revised tree style topology with the following design principles: \- Single patch panel near comms cabinet \- Wall port *per room*, with 4 and 8 port unmanaged switches branching to devices In real life, that's going to mean the following clusters each hanging off an unmanaged switch: \- Home office with 3-4 computers and a MFD \- TV/Media devices (gaming consoles, Android TV box, AV receiver) \- 2-3 gaming PCs So obviously each unmanaged switch becomes an additional point-of-failure, but a tolerable one. In terms of throughput, I'm unlikely to touch the sides (as they say), and the 100Mbps WAN connection is a far narrower bottleneck than theoretical limit of 4-5 devices sharing a single 1Gb cable back to the "root" switch - but is there any gotchas that I'm not considering, like latency, additional overhead per switch, or future proofing for PoE+ (currently I have WiFI APs and LED Panels that will all be ceiling mounted and cabled per device)? Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated!
Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my home router that is beginning to struggle with the amount of network devices on the network. Namely with network dropouts and slowdowns. Current config: ISP: cable modem with 350mbps download and 10mbps upload. (Hoping to have 1.5gbps fibre as an option in the near future) Current router: first generation Netgear Orbi gen 1 with 1 satellite running upstairs. Also has two small 5 port unmanaged switches (100/1000) for wired connections. There is also another two small 5 port and 8 port unmanaged switches running to my main router (100/1000) running a smart tv, several computers, a server, Phillips hue hub, etc. Wireless I have dozens of devices between iDevices, game consoles, tv, laptops, etc. in total I have around 55 devices connected at any given time. There is also an access point (old Asus router working in AP mode) used for all my smart bulbs/switches that is connected to one of my unmanaged switches connected to the main router. What should I be running on my network? I figure I’ll need something for around 80 devices give or take and am looking for something a bit future proof. I’ll be upgrading to fibre someday; and internally I’ll want at least 2.5gb. Is there a router that can handle this config or should I be looking at something a bit more commercial/industrial? And if so, what? Thanks,
I have 2 new GoCoax MA2500D MOCA adapters with 2.5GBE switches, cat 6 cable and 2 machines running RTL8125b 2.5GBE network cards. The problem I'm having is that transfers to the file server write at close to 210MB/s (not great, but good enough) but the read speed is terrible at only 50MB/s. I have turned off EEE on both machines, MA2500D updated to latest firmware. The MOCA splitters in use are wideband and explicitly MOCA compatible. One holland 3-way moca splitter with a POE filter outside the house, one "sunburst" moca 2.0 compatible indoors. I don't expect mega speeds when reading and writing are occurring at the same time, but what could the issue be? Here's what I tried so far. - LOOOONG ethernet cable wiring both machines together = full 2.5gbps speed in both directions. - LOOOONG ethernet switch cable both 2.5GB switches together = full 2.5gbps speed in both direcitons - Both MOCA adapters plugged directly into each machine, same problem. - I powered off my cable modem, same problem.
First, my apologies if this has been answered before, I couldn't find an answer. This is my first time dealing with a smart plug, and I looked online how to set up my access point router years ago (set it and forget it kind of thing.) But I'm not entirely incompetent if someone could simply point me in the right direction. I recently purchased a smart plug (Kasa EP10) that I want to hook up to an outlet in my basement. The smart plug is closer to my main Verizon router than the access point router (Linksys N600) in my office. Both the Verizon router and access point are on the main floor above the basement. I currently have my access point router setup with a different SSID (name) and password. It's connected with an ethernet cable (technically with a unmanaged switch in between) to the main Verizon router. Not a large house, but there are enough structural barriers where I need an access point on the other end of the house to get any Wi-Fi. Is there a way to still command the smart plug while my phone/app is connected to the access point, without having to change the SSID/etc on the access point router to match the main router? Or should I just bite the bullet and change my access point to have the same log in? Most Wi-Fi devices connected to both the main router and the access point are 5Ghz, rather than the 2.4Ghz that the smart plug needs, if that makes any difference. I have a month before I need to set everything up, I'm just trying to preplan (overthinking everything.) Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Please explain to me like if im 7, I'm really not good at this Our wifi and Ethernet is installed on 2nd floor And when I'm in the basement the wifi barely works and keeps disconnecting often, unless if i stay on a specific place of the basement and rven though the internet speed is like 50% slower in there I'm looking for the best way share the internet to the basement without losing a significant amount of internet speed Preferably without using cables to to connect from 2nd floor to the basement because that will be troublesome Thank you very much